Planning a successful trip
Why backpack the Mt. Rainier Wonderland Trail?
Conquering the Wonderland Trail is an accomplishment.
The Wonderland Trail, a 93-mile trek encircling Washington’s iconic Mount Rainier, deserves a spot on every avid backpacker’s bucket list.
This challenging yet rewarding journey takes hikers through pristine wilderness, offering breathtaking views of glaciers, subalpine meadows bursting with wildflowers, and old-growth forests.
The trail’s diversity is a window to the park’s volcanic past and shows off Mount Rainier’s beauty from every angle.
Ready for an unforgettable adventure?
Wonderland Trail information
Where is the Wonderland Trail?
The Wonderland Trail is a hiking trail that circumnavigates Mount Rainier in the state of Washington, USA.
Mount Rainier is an iconic stratovolcano and the highest mountain in the state. The Wonderland Trail is approximately 93 miles (150 kilometers) long and offers stunning views of Mount Rainier, alpine meadows, and diverse ecosystems.
Hikers can experience a variety of terrains, from dense forests to subalpine and alpine zones. The trail typically takes around 10 to 14 days to complete, and permits are required for backpacking.
The Wonderland Trail is a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts and offers a challenging yet rewarding experience.
How long is the Wonderland Trail?
The Wonderland Trail is approximately 93 miles (150 kilometers) long.
What is the elevation gain on the Wonderland Trail?
The Wonderland Trail, which circumnavigates Mount Rainier in Washington state, involves a significant amount of elevation gain and loss as it traverses diverse terrains.
The total elevation gain for the entire trail is roughly 22,000 feet (about 6,700 meters).
Hikers experience a variety of landscapes, from dense forests to subalpine meadows and high alpine zones, contributing to the overall elevation changes throughout the trail.
This elevation gain, coupled with the challenging terrain, makes the Wonderland Trail a physically demanding and rewarding backpacking experience.
- Highest elevation: 6,750 ft (2,060 m) – Panhandle Gap
- Lowest elevation: 2,320 ft (720 m) – Ipsut Creek Campground
- Total elevation gain and loss: More than 46,000 ft (14,021 m)
Can a beginner hike the Wonderland Trail?
The Wonderland Trail is difficult.
While it is well-marked, well-traveled, and has many rangers, campground toilets, and infrastructure for backpackers, it is still a long and challenging trip.
We do not consider it a beginner-level backpacking trip.
However, there are many day-hike stretches of trail around Mt Rainier, some even using the Wonderland Trail.
Are there water crossings on the Wonderland Trail?
There are many water crossings on the Wonderland Trail.
Depending on the time of year, the water can fluctuate from a mighty river to a slow trickle.
Cross these areas with extreme caution.
We met a solo hiker who had slipped on a log as they crossed.
The river swept them down an eighth of a mile before they could get ahold of the bank and pull themselves and their now-soaking gear out of the river.
How hard is it to hike The Wonderland Trail?
Hiking the Wonderland Trail is a challenging and strenuous undertaking.
Several factors contribute to the difficulty of this hike:
- Length:
The trail is approximately 93 miles (150 kilometers) long, requiring several days to complete. The length itself poses a physical challenge. - Elevation gain and loss:
The Wonderland Trail involves a significant amount of elevation gain and loss, totaling around 22,000 feet (about 6,700 meters). The terrain varies from dense forests to subalpine and alpine environments, and hikers must navigate steep ascents and descents. - Variable weather:
The weather conditions around Mount Rainier can be unpredictable. Hikers may encounter rain, snow, or other challenging weather elements, even in the summer months. - Permit system:
Securing a permit for the Wonderland Trail can be competitive, and planning logistics in advance is essential. The permit system is in place to manage the number of visitors and protect the environment. - Backcountry skills:
Hiking the Wonderland Trail requires solid backcountry skills, including navigation, camping, and Leave No Trace principles. Hikers should be prepared for a true wilderness experience. - Physical fitness:
Due to the length, elevation changes, and challenging terrain, hikers need to be in good physical condition to complete the trail. Training and preparation are crucial.
While the Wonderland Trail is challenging, it is also highly rewarding, offering breathtaking views of Mount Rainier and diverse ecosystems.
Hikers should be well-prepared, physically fit, and equipped with the necessary gear and skills to undertake this adventure safely.
Additionally, it’s essential to check for current trail conditions and obtain the required permits before embarking on the journey.
What is the weather like on the Wonderland Trail?
Due to the range in elevation, while traversing the Wonderland Trail, the weather and temperature will shift, sometimes dramatically.
What is the best season to hike the Wonderland Trail?
The trail is open to backpacking from mid to late June through October, depending on snowfall and accessibility.
Are there bears on the Wonderland Trail?
Yes.
You may see or come across black bears on your trip along the Wonderland Trail.
We spotted four individual bears while coming down from Ipsut Pass.
They were busy doing their own thing, so they didn’t bother or come close to us, and we respectfully watched from a distance.
Maps and directions
Wonderland Trail map with campsites
Here is a map showing all of the campgrounds and other topographical features.
This is NOT a map to use for navigation.
Wonderland Trail on Google Maps
We’ve created this Google map to show the general locations of the campgrounds for planning purposes.
We like to use this trip calculator to calculate the daily distance while planning our trips.
How to get to the Wonderland Trail
Here is a brief set of directions for getting to the Wonderland Trail, including instructions for reaching the Longmire, Carbon River, and White River trailheads.
To reach the Longmire trailhead:
- From Seattle, take I-5 south to SR 512 (exit 127).
- Take SR 512 east to SR 7.
- Follow SR 7 south to SR 706 in Elbe.
- Take SR 706 east through Ashford to the Nisqually Entrance of Mount Rainier National Park.
- Once inside the park, follow the signs to Longmire. The Wonderland Trail starts from the stone steps across from the Longmire Wilderness Information Center.
To reach the Carbon River trailhead:
- From Seattle, take I-5 south to SR 167 south (exit 154).
- Follow SR 167 south to SR 410 east.
- Take SR 410 east to SR 165. Follow SR 165 south to the Carbon River Entrance of Mount Rainier National Park.
- The Carbon River Road is closed to vehicles past the park boundary, but you can hike or bike along the road-turned-trail to access the Wonderland Trail.
To reach the White River trailhead:
- From Seattle, take I-5 south to SR 18. Take SR 18 east to I-90.
- Follow I-90 east to SR 410 (exit 25).
- Take SR 410 east for 43 miles to the White River Entrance of Mount Rainier National Park.
- Turn right onto Sunrise Road and follow it for 5 miles to the White River Campground, where you can access the Wonderland Trail.
Note that while Longmire is open year-round, the Carbon River and White River areas are typically only accessible from late spring through early fall.
Always check current road and trail conditions before starting your trip on the Wonderland Trail.
Permits and planning
Do I need a permit to backpack the Wonderland Trail?
Yes, a permit is required to backpack on the Wonderland Trail.
The trail is within Mount Rainier National Park, and the permit system is in place to manage the number of visitors and preserve the wilderness experience.
The permit system helps ensure that the trail and surrounding environment are protected and that visitors can enjoy the area responsibly.
Permits for the Wonderland Trail are typically in high demand, so it’s advisable to plan well in advance. The National Park Service issues permits on a reservation basis, and they become available several months before the hiking season.
You can check the official website of Mount Rainier National Park for the most up-to-date information on permit availability, reservation procedures, and any other requirements or restrictions.
Walk-up permits are also an option. You can get walk-up permits by visiting one of the three starting point Ranger Stations (Longmire, Whiteriver, and Carbon River).
You will need to be familiar with the trail and camp distances. The ranger will do their best to help you plan a trip and acquire permits.
If you can’t get a full set of permits for the entire loop, you can do an open-jaw style trip leaving a car at the starting and ending location. This presents some additional planning challenges, but it is a possibility.
For all the important dates and planning see the calendar of dates and other info on Recreation.gov.
The permitting system is fairly strict. The camping locations and dates you have booked are only flexible in the event of an emergency or safety concern. You can receive a fine if you are found without a permit.
One thing I read stated up to $5,000 for being unpermitted!!
Can you hike the Wonderland Trail without a permit?
No!
Rangers are patroling the trail, checking permits.
They will escort you off the trail if you do not have a permit.
And, no, they will not carry your backpack🤪
Where should I start the Wonderland Trail?
There are three starting locations on the Wonderland trail:
Longmire Ranger Station
White River Ranger Station
Carbon River Ranger Station
How do you reserve campsites?
Go to Recreation.gov to get permits.
The permits for the Wonderland Trail are given by lottery and a day-of walk-up system.
Reservations go on sale usually in April and they go quickly.
If you want permits have your camps noted down ahead of time and your laptop ready as soon as the permits are released, a few minutes after release they are usually gone.
A few tips we’ve learned:
- The list for checkout is alphabetical by camp name
- Have all camps noted on paper to be quicker (going between computer tabs took too long)
- Fast internet speed is key
- Pick camps ahead so that you are aware of the distance between camps
For more details and a calendar of important dates.
The permits on Recreation.gov are labeled as Mount Rainier National Park Wilderness and Climbing Permits not as Wonderland Trail.
How long does it take to hike the Wonderland Trail?
This depends on preference and hiking ability.
We’ve done this trail as a ten-day trip and as an eight-day trip. The longer trip allowed us more time in camp to rest and enjoy the area.
Keep in mind that this is a challenging trail. There are water crossings, downed trees to traverse occasionally, and lots of elevation gains and losses.
Are there bathrooms on the Wonderland Trail?
A pit toilet is at most campgrounds along the wonderland trail.
Be advised that most of these are composting toilets exposed to the elements. You will need to carry your toilet paper.
Where can I park my car at the Wonderland Trail?
If you are starting your backpacking trip from Longmire, there is a section of the Longmire Ranger Station/Lodge parking lot that allows overnight packers.
When you pick up your permit at the ranger station, you can ask for specifics about where this area is, as it is unmarked.
The same is true for the Whiteriver area and Carbon River.
Check with the ranger when you pick up your permit to verify your vehicle is parked in a designated area and won’t be towed while you’re on the trail.
Do you need a bear canister for the Wonderland Trail?
Early in the season, you may be required to carry a bear can if rangers have not gotten out to see up bear poles.
Typically you are not required to have a bear can with you because the camps either have a bear pole for hanging food or a bear locker.
You will need something to hold all your food and smellables for hanging.
We like Sea and Summit dry bags or using our sleeping bag stuff sack.
How do I cache my food for the Wonderland Trail?
Ship it to the ranger station cache location at least three weeks before your trip.
An alternative method is to hand deliver it to the ranger station. You must take it directly to the ranger station nearest your cache location.
The options for cache locations are:
- Longmire
- Mowich Lake
(The gate for this campground does not open until July 5th, weather dependant, so you will be unable to deliver it to the cache spot directly) - White River
The National Park Service covers how to go about caching food here.
We had great plans to meet up with Jordan’s parents for a fun lunch midway through our ten-day trek.
However, after some research, Jordan realized that the gate to our intended meet-up point was locked for the season and wouldn’t be opened until a few days after we’d passed.
Check these details if you are traveling at the beginning or end of the season, as weather may change the closure dates.
Another factor to keep in mind – trail washouts or mudslides cause trail closures.
Prepare to backpack The Wonderland Trail
Physically fit
Every person is going to have to honestly access themselves.
Embarking on the Wonderland Trail demands more than just a sense of adventure; it necessitates a robust level of physical fitness. The trail’s undulating terrain, spanning alpine meadows, dense forests, and steep ascents, requires endurance and strength.
Hikers tackling the 93-mile circumnavigation around Mount Rainier should be prepared for elevation changes, challenging climbs, and extended periods of activity.
Physical fitness not only enhances one’s ability to navigate the demanding topography but also contributes to an overall safer and more enjoyable experience.
Well-conditioned muscles and cardiovascular endurance are invaluable assets when conquering the rugged beauty of the Wonderland Trail.
What we did: Jordan instigated several “hill climbing” workouts (we should have done more).
We found a nice neighborhood nearby with a steep hill, loaded our backpacks with 20 lbs worth of weight (milk jugs full of water in my case), and went up and down the hill for 30 minutes each session. It got to the point where a neighbor came out to ask what the heck we were doing.
He and his wife thought we were either loony or training for the Himalayas.
Making a menu and prepping meals
Some of our go-to backpacking meals:
- Instant mashed potatoes with parmesan cheese and salami
- Mountain House Meals
- Ramen with added freeze-dried meat and soy sauce packets
Breakfast ideas:
- Oatmeal packets
- Cream-o-wheat packets
- Peanut butter powder (rehydrated) on crackers
- Dried fruit and meat sticks
Lunch ideas:
We typically pack snacky lunches, so we don’t have to unpack all our cooking gear.
- Crackers, meat, and cheese
- Meat sticks
- Jerky
- Energy bars
- Freeze-dried fruit (it’s lighter than dried fruit)
- Snickers candy bar
- Fruit snacks
Make a menu that suits your needs.
Backpacking is a lot about remembering that you have to carry what you pack.
Choosing freeze-dried foods means less weight to carry, which pays off big time on the trail.
What to pack
The Wonderland Trail didn’t require much more than any of our other backpacking trips.
We did invest in a solar-powered phone charger to enable us to take all the photos and videos and read our books.
But one thing we needed more of was bug spray.
Here are some of the basic backpacking essentials:
Tent
Sleeping bags and pads
Stove and fuel – fires are not allowed on the Wonderland Trail. We use a Jetboil. It heats water super fast, so we can get dinner made and hot drinks served quickly.
Hiking poles – hiking poles were my best friend! For uphill and downhill, it was nice to have the added stability, and it helped me endure longer. We bought Leki Cork Lite poles.
Water filter – we use Sawyer.
Water bladder or water bottle
First aid kit
Compass
Solar panel – we got a packable small panel that works well to charge our phones.
Clothes
I love Smartwool.
I pack a Smartwool long-sleeve shirt, leggings, and socks on all of our backpacking trips because I get cold at night.
The natural properties of wool are amazing, it keeps you warm and insulated when you’re cold, but it also naturally cools you down if it’s hot. Wool also doesn’t hold smells, so my Smartwool clothing stays fresh longer.
This is a real perk when backpacking.
Perhaps it was specifically the time of year we traveled the trail, or it was an especially bad year for mosquitos.
Whatever the cause, the mosquito population was thick, and as a walking, talking blood bank, I was their favorite thing in the vicinity.
While we did have a great natural bug spray with us, we had not packed near enough to last the entire trip and I found myself rationing it and instead diving into the tent as soon as possible to avoid the pesky varmints.
From the protection of the tent, I would look out and see hundreds sitting on the mesh window of the door, looking in at me.
A disconcerting notion.
Maddie (sister-in-law) introduced me to this bug spray, and I thoroughly love it.
It smells delicious, like lemon-head candy, and it works well without having any gross, weird chemicals in it.
Our favorite non-toxic bug spray
Buy Now →Water
There are lots of water sources along the trail.
However, depending on how fast you are hiking and how hot it is, we found that filtering water at each stream we came to was a good idea.
Electrolyte drink mix
Activities to do on The Wonderland Trail
Photography
The Wonderland Trail offers breathtaking views of Mount Rainier and the surrounding landscapes.
Photography enthusiasts will find numerous opportunities to capture the beauty of the mountain, alpine lakes, and diverse flora.
Botanical exploration:
The trail traverses various ecosystems, showcasing a diverse range of plant life. Botany enthusiasts can enjoy identifying different wildflowers, trees, and other plant species.
Stargazing:
Away from city lights, the night sky along the Wonderland Trail can be spectacular. Clear nights offer excellent stargazing opportunities, and camping under the stars can be a memorable experience.
Wildlife viewing:
Mount Rainier National Park has various wildlife, including deer, marmots, mountain goats, and black bears. Wildlife enthusiasts can spot and observe these creatures along the trail.
Some of the best views on the Wonderland Trail
The Wonderland Trail offers many breathtaking views throughout its 93-mile loop around Mount Rainier. Here are some of the most stunning vistas and scenic highlights:
- Summerland:
This alpine meadow bursts with wildflowers in July and August, providing a colorful foreground to the panoramic views of Mount Rainier. It’s a favorite spot for many hikers. - Emerald Ridge:
The open slopes of Emerald Ridge offer unobstructed views of the massive Tahoma Glacier and the dramatic Willis Wall on Mount Rainier’s west side. - Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground:
This subalpine meadow showcases Mount Rainier’s southwestern face and the Tahoma Glacier. Wildflowers abound in the summer months. - Panhandle Gap:
As you crest Panhandle Gap, expansive vistas open up to the south, reaching as far as Mount Adams. The barren, rocky landscape contrasts beautifully with the lush meadows of Indian Bar below. - Spray Park:
The trail through Spray Park, a detour near Mowich Lake, winds through lush meadows with Mount Rainier looming large on the horizon. - Reflection Lakes:
These tranquil lakes, located near the Paradise area, offer mirror-like reflections of Mount Rainier on calm days.
Other notable viewpoints include Klapatche Park and St. Andrews Lake, Grand Park, Berkeley Park, and both the Winthrop and Emmons Glaciers near Sunrise.
For those willing to take short side trips, the Mount Fremont Lookout and Pinnacle Peak offer exceptional views as well.
Think deep thoughts while on a media-fast
There is little to no reception on the trail.
While we did use our phones to take photos and read books it was a pleasant relief to be inaccessible and free of social media.
Yoga
Most likely, you will have long days of hiking, some grueling, long, and tiring.
It may be counterintuitive to get to camp with a yoga routine planned for the evening or afternoon.
The reason we suggest this is because it’s a fantastic way to recover your muscles so that you feel less stiff, tight, and sore the next day.
We did a simple, mostly stretch-focused yoga session a few times while on the trail and found it extremely relaxing, relieving, and helped to feel less sore for the following day’s hike.
Card games
Playing card games on the Wonderland Trail adds a delightful and communal dimension to the outdoor adventure.
Amidst the breathtaking landscapes and the physical challenges of hiking around Mount Rainier, taking a moment to relax and engage in card games can be a rejuvenating break.
Read
Neither of us wanted to carry a heavy book, but we wanted the chance to read something we’d had on our list for a while.
So we decided to take a solar-powered phone charger and download our books to our phones.
This was a nice end-of-the-day activity that we enjoyed while curled in our tent, hiding from mosquitos.
Reentry
Maybe it was just us, but when we returned from our trip, we had a few things to adjust to.
While on the trail we found what we had packed for food was enough to fuel us and keep us nourished, but we were still hungry. Our meals were somewhat diverse as we’d tried to keep it interesting.
We still started dreaming about fresh foods and things like donuts, bread pudding (which we’d never really had before), real, good coffee, sushi, and burgers.
Our true foody spirit came out and we spent the month back hitting our bingo cards worth of “foods we wish we could eat.” This was an unexpected and delightful outcome of backpacking for ten days.
Being back “on” and available digitally was a less pleasant returning factor. It made us truly realize the benefit of being off-grid for our ten-day trip.
Other hikes in the Pacific Northwest
Latourell Falls Loop Trail, Columbia River Gorge, OR
Dog Mountain Trail, Columbia River Gorge Area, WA
Elk Mountain and Kings Mountain Loop Trail
Silver Star Mountain Trail, Skamania County, Washington
Tillamook Head Traverse Trail, Oregon
